Webvet Small Animals Feed

Webvet Small Animals Feed http://www.webvet.com/main/index2/id/small This feed contains articles about Small Animals en-us Copyright 2009 Webvet, LLC 2009-11-07T07:20-05:00 advertise@webvet.com advertise@webvet.com Small Animals hourly Animal sex: The scent of a woman http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2262 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2262">Animal sex: The scent of a woman</a><br />  <h4>"I am calling you-ou-ou-ou-ou-ooo!" </h4><p>Whether bringing individuals together from miles away or from right next door, sending and receiving chemical signals is the oldest form of communication on the planet. Whether secreted from skin, tongues, or glands, sexual "pheromones"  -- wafted through the air, suffused in water, or deposited on the ground -- send their distinctive "come hither" message to the opposite sex:"I am ready. Now!" </p> <p>The word ‘pheromone' comes from the Greek<em>, pherin</em>, to transfer, and <em>hormon</em>, to excite or stimulate. While pheromones perform a variety of functions -- like identifying male territory, and warning away rivals -- <em>sexual</em> pheromones are designed to attract and arouse the opposite sex. </p> <h4>How it works</h4> <p>Animals produce hormones. When secreted externally they become pheromones. The "scent" is received by the opposite sex through the ‘vomeronasal organ,' a part of the olfactory system -- the system by which animals smell things and get their brains stimulated. </p> <p>The effects of all this olfactory ‘Morse Code' are as diverse as the animals that employ it, as these examples show: </p> <ul><li>Female pigs become sexually aroused by the sex pheromones in the saliva of male pigs. </li><li>Golden male hamsters are stimulated to mount females after getting a whiff of vaginal pheromones. </li><li>Female goldfish release their pheromones into the water at night, and the males, picking up the scent, find themselves producing sperm for fertilization. The next morning, when the females are ready to spawn, the males enthusiastically make the journey in search of the goldfish beauties with that alluring scent. However, it's a little disconcerting to discover that all the guys in the neighborhood are making the same commute. </li></ul> <h4>That signature scent</h4> <p>Part of the work of sex pheromones is to help members of the same species identify each other, so it won't be a waste of time to have sex. </p> <p>For instance, there are thought to be 150,000 to 250,000 different species of <em>moths,</em> but there is only one particular, chemically correct, sexual pheromone per species. A male silk moth will receive a female's sexual invitation from as far away as seven miles, but he won't bother to waste his time and energy flying over -- making himself vulnerable to predators and competing with all the other males she is beckoning to -- unless the pheromone is from a female of his own kind. When the right call gets the attention of the male's antennae, it's then pretty much irresistible. </p> <h4>How about them red garter snakes?</h4> <p>Nature is never satisfied until a species evolves the best strategy for mating and surviving. So it should come as no surprise that some animal groups will break or bend the pheromone attraction rules.</p> <p>Take the case of the Manitoba red-sided garter snake. Some males mimic the pheromones of the females, thereby tricking other males into trying to have sex with them. Yes, that's right; they become "she-males."</p> <p>Manitoba garter snakes spend the entire winter in the frigid Canadian region between Lake Manitoba and Lake Winnipeg, arriving by the thousands, after slithering their way over miles of rocky terrain. Males and females hibernate together in crevasses as small as six feet wide and sixteen feet deep to keep from freezing to death. When spring arrives, each den disgorges as many as 10,000 snakes. The males are the first to emerge from their winter retreat. When the females finally appear, seething balls of hundreds of male snakes form around one female. These snake balls remain intact, rolling around the rocky terrain until one male has successfully mated with the female.</p> <h4>Trick or treat?</h4> <p>Here's the interesting part. Some mating balls have no female. In that writhing horde of snakes, the only way a male can identify a female is by her pheromones, secreted through her skin. Snakes flick their tongues in and out, picking up chemical cues from the air, and transfer them to a sensory organ in the roof of their mouth.</p> <p>So, why would any self-respecting male garter snake become a she-male? One theory is that this subterfuge keeps the other males from "getting the girl" and passing on their genes. They're all busy mistakenly trying to mate the imposter. </p> <h4>Are we at the mercy of our body chemistry?</h4> <p>Do humans also emit and receive pheromes? Do we "smell" as good as the rest of the animal world? To find out you'll have to read my next Animal Sex blog-"The Scent of a Woman." [LINK to the blog] </p> <h4>Coming Attractions</h4><p> Next up on <em>Birds Do It, Bees Do It</em>, you'll read about a sea creature with a penis that can grip like a hand. "What is tugging on my leg? Oh noooo..." </p><p style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; line-height: 200%; vertical-align: baseline"><span class="apple-style-span"></span></p> <br />By Sally Schloss for WebVet By Sally Schloss for WebVet Small Animals Should your pet's diet go 'natural?' http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2110 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2110">Should your pet's diet go 'natural?'</a><br /><p>As you scan the choices in your market's pet food aisle, you've no doubt noticed the labels promoting "natural" foods for dogs and cats. Natural pet foods are popular, according to a survey of 1,090 respondents conducted by Hill's Pet Nutrition, which makes Hill's Nature's Best, a natural product. But the pollsters also found confusion about what the term means.  To complicate your shopping and feeding tasks, veterinarians don't all agree that pets need "natural" formulas.</p><p>First, the survey findings:</p><ul><li>A third of respondents say they feed their pet a natural food, the majority for health reasons, and about half choose the natural food based on ingredients.</li><li>More than half of respondents believe natural pet food is the best option for their pet's health.</li><li>More than half say they <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1582" target="_blank">read the label</a> before buying a pet food, but understanding the label or all of it is difficult for most who do.</li></ul><p>The survey answers trigger several other important questions, such as what constitutes a "natural" pet food and whether it beats out other types.</p><h4>What is a natural pet food?</h4><p>Guidelines for natural pet foods are made by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), says Kurt Gallagher, a spokesperson for the Pet Food Institute in Washington, D.C.  Among other requirements, the use of the term natural in reference to the food product as a whole is acceptable only when all of the ingredients meet the definition. Natural means none of the ingredients are chemically synthesized.</p><p>The association does, however, make an exception when chemically synthesized vitamins, minerals or other trace nutrients are present in an otherwise natural food product if a disclaimer is used that these parts of the food aren't natural. In this case, the label would probably say: "Natural with added vitamins and minerals."</p><p>If only some of the ingredients are natural, look for such labels as "natural cheese flavor."</p><h4>Is natural food a necessity? Three views</h4><p>There's no official policy or advice about natural pet food from the American Veterinary Medical Association, according to spokesperson David Kirkpatrick. Individual vets do have their opinions, however.</p><p>"Natural" means different things to different pet owners, finds Tony Buffington, DVM, PhD, professor of veterinary clinical sciences at the Ohio State University Veterinary Hospital, Columbus, and diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Nutrition.  "If they mean raw food, I want to see the recipe," he says. If pet owners are asking about feeding their pets a diet labeled as natural from a commercial manufacturer that has years of experience making pet foods, he says: "Have at it."</p><p>But he adds a caveat: Don't expect health miracles just because your pet is eating "natural" foods. "Natural pet foods are just another kind of pet food made available for people who are interested in those kinds of food," he says. "There's no evidence I am aware of [that] they are any different from the point of view of the health of the animals or that they are any worse."</p><p>However, Heidi Hulon, DVM, a consultant for Hill's Pet Nutrition and a small animal practitioner in Louisville, Ky., sees benefit to natural foods--assuming the food lives up to its label claims as natural.</p><p>If so, she says, "it provides complete and balanced nutrition, and it helps maintain ideal body weight when fed appropriately." Some kinds of natural foods include high levels of antioxidants, which help maintain cellular health, she says, by protecting cells from damage done by unstable molecules known as free radicals.</p><p>In a nutshell: "The natural products are good, provided you know who the manufacturer is and they can confirm that the food follows the AAFCO guidelines," Hulon says.</p><br />By Kathleen Doheny for WebVet By Kathleen Doheny for WebVet Small Animals Four things you should know about your vet http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1923 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1923">Four things you should know about your vet</a><br /><p>The treatment your veterinarian and their <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article/id/1471/med/0" target="_blank" title="vet technicians">vet technicians</a> provide is worth the price you must pay.  Often you're finishing up with the vet when the receptionist delivers the good news: The bill is ready for you. Now for the bad news: It'll cost you a chunk of change for baby's <em>Bordetella</em> shot and its freshly emptied anal sacs. </p><p>But why should you have to pay so much to help a poor, defenseless (not to mention super cute) creature? After all, if you can't find charity at the vet's office, where can you?</p><p>Ask Georgette Wilson, DVM, manager of vet operations at Pfizer Animal Health in New York City, and she'll tell you that charity is all a matter of perspective. </p><p>"If you're looking for an educated, compassionate, and fair hand in the care and well-being of your animal, chances are your vet's already giving it in droves,'' Wilson said. "Unfortunately, too many people fail to recognize the value vets bring to their pets. We're asked over and over again that, if we love animals so much, why aren't we offering our services for free?''</p><p>To answer that question -- and help you understand why veterinarians are worth their weight in currency -- the following are four things you may not know about them, but should. They just may change the way you think about paying on the way out.</p><h4>#1: They are trained as vigorously as doctors of human medicine. </h4><p>Consider this:</p><ul><li>It takes four years of college and four years of veterinary school to become a vet. Then, students must pass both national and state exams to practice, and take continuing education courses to keep up with new developments.</li><li>It's statistically harder to get into veterinary school than it is to get into a human medical school because of the limited number of vet schools, as compared to medical schools. (There are only 28 vet schools in the United States).</li><li>Vets going into <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article/id/2176/med/0" target="_blank" title="Veterinary specialty practice">specialty practice </a>(there are about 20 in veterinary medicine, from cardiology and ophthalmology to behavioral medicine and surgery, etc) go on to do an internship and residency, with each step becoming more competitive. </li></ul><p>"When all is said and done, a vet can have as many as 11 to 12 years of additional training after high school,'' Wilson said. "Most people don't know that.''</p><h4>#2: It's not about the money for vets.</h4><p>While today's veterinarians can make a good living, it's not nearly as much as their counterparts in human medicine. Depending on where they live and their specific field of practice, they can make anywhere from about $35,000 (for equine veterinarians) to $117,000 a year (for laboratory animal veterinarians), according to the most recent estimates. Vets in private practice earn around $50,000, and those in government earn around $70,000. </p><p>"The reward for us is really not about money, because we don't make as much as many people think,'' Wilson said. "It's really about seeing pets get better.''</p><h4>#3: They love science and medicine.</h4><p>"People always say I must love animals to be in veterinary medicine. And I do, but I also love science and medicine," Wilson said. In fact, she and others agree it's the combination of all three that draw people into veterinary practice.</p><p>And that's a good thing, since there's plenty of each involved in treating the broad spectrum of species examined and treated by veterinarians. While human physicians must learn about male and female anatomy and physiology, vets need to understand cats, dogs, cows, pigs, goats, sheep, horses, birds, rodents, rabbits, amphibians, reptiles, and so on. </p><p>Vets also need to know how each species functions and responds to available medications, and have a solid understanding of the basic behaviors, care requirements, diseases and parasites related to each species.</p><h4>#4: They offer value beyond the prescription.</h4><p>Finally, while vets bring their medical skills and knowledge in treating their patients and educating their patient's owners, they also offer the softer side of what it takes to be a communicative, concerned and knowledgeable caregiver - and a great advocate for your pet.</p><p>"Becoming a vet is a lot of hard work and we take seriously our duty to act in the best interests of our client's pets,'' Wilson said. "Even if owners don't like our recommendations or paying for them, we try to help them understand the value of our experience, education, and expertise. I always hope, as all vets do, that at the end of a visit, owners leave feeling good about how we've helped them.''</p><p> </p><p>Rather than skimping on visits to the vet, pet owners should consider <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2109" target="_blank" title="pet insurance overview">pet insurance</a> and <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2070" target="_blank" title="financial aid for pets">other forms of financial assistance.</a> </p><br />By Jill Sherer Murray for WebVet By Jill Sherer Murray for WebVet Small Animals Is your child ready for a pet ferret? http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2011 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2011">Is your child ready for a pet ferret?</a><br /><p>Readying kids for pet ferrets. Playful puppies can be irresistible and frisky kittens adorable. But when it comes to pets, there are few as undeniably cute and snuggly as ferrets. And if you have a child who ever gets an opportunity to see or hold a ferret, chances are that you'll be inundated with pleas to own one. </p><p>Before heading to the pet store to ferret out the right furry companion for your family, however, experts say it's important to consider the age and maturity of your child first: Is your son or daughter old enough to handle and care for a ferret responsibly?</p><h4>Age-old question</h4><p>Ask Shana Savikko, DVM, veterinary advisor for the American Animal Hospital Association, Lakewood, Colo., and she'll tell you that young children and ferrets probably won't make a great match. </p><p>"I do not recommend ferrets in household with children under six years of age because of the possibility that they may inadvertently harm the ferret,'' Savikko said. "Ferrets are curious little creatures and tend to bite when startled or handled roughly.''</p><p>Troy Lynn Eckart, ferret behavior specialist with Ferret Family Services, Manhattan, Kan., said that while some children as young as six years old can be responsible, "others may not reach that level of care until they are 12. A very activities-involved child, such as with school, groups and church, may not want to devote the necessary time to care for ferrets.''</p><p>When children are hungry or thirsty, "they go to their parents and tell them, or they get food or water themselves,'' Eckart said. "But they may not understand that the ferret depends on that same care from the young child.''</p><p>Mary McCarty-Houser, director of the Pennsylvania Ferret Rescue Association of Centre County, Boalsburg, Pa., has more stringent standards. She usually recommends that children be at least 10 years old, "unless the family is well-versed with pets or the parent thinks the child is mature enough to be left alone with the ferret at a slightly younger age.''</p><h4>Critter commitments</h4><p>Ferrets demand more from their owners than a fresh dish of food, a large, clean cage and a few minutes of fur stroking.</p><p>"If a child has chores to do, it isn't a big deal if they miss a day or two. But if they miss a day or two of caring for a ferret, it could be stressful and possibly deadly to the ferret,'' Eckart said. "Ferrets are living, breathing beings that experience emotions and depend on their caretakers for their very lives.''</p><p>Single ferrets will need at least one hour a day of play time with you and another hour or so of play time on their own, out of their enclosure, Savikko said. </p><p>"Ferrets require a good amount of time for socializing, playing and interacting with their human family every day,'' Eckart said. "The more socialized time, the more relaxed and responsive the ferret is.''</p><p>"A routine is necessary for the health and well-being of any ferret, including routines for daily feeding, exercise, cleaning and interaction,'' Savikko said. "Ferrets also need to be groomed on a regular basis. And regular veterinary care needs to be part of your ferret's routine, too.''</p><h4>A room with a chew</h4><p>It may also not be a good idea to place the ferret's cage in your child's room, where it can be easily forgotten about, Savikko said. </p><p>"If the room is 'ferret-proofed,' the ferret can stay in the child's room as long as a responsible adult frequently checks on the enclosure to make sure it is clean and safe and that the ferret has been fed and watered each day,'' Savikko said.</p><p>"I know of a situation where a 10-year-old boy with a ferret cage in his bedroom almost starved his pet to death,'' Eckart said. "He got busy with school and friends and wasn't feeding, watering or cleaning the cage.''</p><h4>Handle with care</h4><p>If you've decided to introduce a ferret into your family, it's vital to teach your child how to properly pick up and handle this delicate pet.</p><p>"Very young children do not realize their strength and could easily harm a fragile ferret,'' Eckart said. "I know of one case where a two-year-old boy threw a ferret down a flight of stairs and broke its neck while the parents were only a few feet away.''</p><p>Savikko offers the following tips for ferret handling:</p><ul><li>Grasp the animal around its abdomen or chest and carefully pick it up.</li><li>Always handle the pet gently and calmly.</li><li>Be aware that ferrets have poor eyesight and should not be put into situations where they could fall from any height or where they feel trapped, to which they can react with aggression.</li><li>If you do not know the temperament of the ferret, don't bring it close to your face. A nose or ear can look like a wonderful chew toy.</li></ul><p>While most socialized ferrets don't present a major biting risk, a startled or roughly handled ferret, however, "will defend itself with its teeth,'' Savikko said. "They need to be kept up to date on their rabies vaccine in case there is a bite that breaks the skin.''</p><p>Additionally, teach your children about dangers to ferrets such as reclining or folding furniture, closing doors, and walking carefully to avoid stepping on the animal, Eckart said.</p><p>"Children who have been taught to handle a ferret appropriately still need supervision when it comes to the care of these little creatures,'' Savikko said. "I've seen teenagers drop a wiggly ferret, leading to escapes and injury.''</p><p>Ultimately, McCarty-Houser said, "I don't think children should have pets -- families should have pets. Children are unable to be completely responsible for pets, so I think parents need to figure out what type of pet they want and then work with the children to be able to be around that pet and handle them appropriately.''</p><br />By Erik J. Martin for WebVet By Erik J. Martin for WebVet Small Animals Litter box training for rabbits http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2076 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2076">Litter box training for rabbits</a><br /><p>Despite the all too common view of pet rabbits, rabbits are not best kept outdoors in small cages with limited human contact. Many rabbits now live indoors with their owners, allowing them much more of the social contact they need. Many indoor rabbits use a litter box, just like house cats. In fact, spayed and neutered rabbits are actually quite easily trained to use a litter box. Litter-box training requires a little bit of space, litter boxes, bunny-approved litter and a little patience. Keep in mind that litter-box training is likely to be successful only for spayed and neutered rabbits, because most unaltered rabbits will continue to mark their territory. </p><h4>Litter and a box</h4><p>Litter boxes come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but the standard large cat box, without a lid, seems to work the best for rabbits. Small corner boxes sold in pet stores for rabbits are usually too small and don’t allow the rabbit to lie down and stretch out. Sometimes bigger is better, especially with multiple rabbits that might try to use the box at the same time. </p><p>Litter is readily available at many pet stores; however, rabbit-savvy veterinarians do not recommend the wood shavings most often sold in these stores. Pine and cedar shavings release oils that can be toxic to the liver and irritate the respiratory system, and clay litters can cause blockages in a rabbit’s digestive tract. While sitting in and after leaving a litter box, a rabbit will clean himself, ingesting the small grains of clay or sand. This clay builds up in a rabbit’s stomach as it absorbs liquid and expands, sometimes forming deadly blockages. Instead of wood shavings or clay litters, recycled paper products are recommended by veterinarians for use as bunny litter.</p><h4>The “bathroom”</h4><p>Set up a small area, about four by five feet, to start training your rabbit. A “puppy pen” works well for both rabbit housing and training. These pens allow the rabbit to hop around while still being near the litter box. Place the litter box, containing some soiled litter, in a corner. If starting with a cage, place the box in the location your rabbit already uses to eliminate. Also place a small amount of timothy hay in the box to coax your rabbit to jump in. This will familiarize your rabbit with the box and keep him coming back for more hay.</p><p>If your rabbit uses another area to eliminate, place a litter box in that area as well. Sometimes rabbits don’t approve of the location you picked, but are still willing to use a box. After the rabbit uses the box well for a few days to a week, increase the size of the rabbit area by a couple square feet. Over time, you can increase the size of the training area to reinforce good litter box habits, or decrease the size if your rabbit “misses.” After training, placing litter boxes in one area often works well for an entire house; however some rabbits require a box in every room, especially if there are multiple rabbits.</p><p>Some rabbits have a tendency to mark their territory despite being spayed or neutered. Other rabbits tend to use multiple areas of their cage instead of just the litter box. It is always possible to cover the entire floor of a cage with litter boxes. You can also slowly “trick” the rabbit into using a box by placing pellets and a water bowl in the box.  Rabbits with true urinary incontinence should be treated by a veterinarian, but these rabbits may still have accidents on occasion.</p><h4>Unwanted “presents”</h4><p>Many people litter-train their rabbits only to be frustrated with the few fecal balls occasionally left behind on the floor. Rabbits also mark their territory by dropping fecal pellets, and as they defecate, the anal sacs on either side of the rectum release a small amount of scent onto the fecal pellet.  This is normal behavior and means that even the best of rabbits will drop a few here and there. So you should not be discouraged if a litter-trained rabbit leaves a gift from time to time. Thankfully, these “presents” are dry and can be easily cleaned up.</p><br />By Deana Mae Nelson for WebVet By Deana Mae Nelson for WebVet Small Animals Understanding your rabbit's dietary needs http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2077 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2077">Understanding your rabbit's dietary needs</a><br /><p>A rabbit’s dietary requirements differ slightly depending on its age and living area and environment.  Young rabbits require more calcium and carbohydrates than adults rabbits for growth. Rabbits that live indoors need more vitamin D-rich foods than rabbits with access to direct sunlight.  Determining the correct diet for a rabbit companion can be difficult for a new pet owner, especially with the variety of “expert” advice available.</p><p>A surprising number of people do not feed their pet rabbits the proper diet. Celina Andrade, a House Rabbit Society supervisor in California, says that she “meet[s] people who feed their rabbits the ‘wrong things’ all the time … 99 percent of what they sell in most major pet stores are the wrong foods or poor-quality foods.”  It is important to keep a wild rabbit’s diet in mind when considering what a pet rabbit should eat. Wild rabbits do not have access to pellets, cereal, or large amounts of fruit and vegetables.  They generally eat grasses and some flowering plants.</p><h4>The bare necessities:</h4><p>A pet rabbit's staple diet should consist of the following three necessary food items:</p><p>• Unlimited amount of timothy, oat and grass hay: Rabbits need fiber to keep their digestive tract moving. Without fiber, their digestive tract shuts down, which is painful and can lead to death in a relatively short time. A rabbit should never go more than six hours without eating fiber-rich, low-protein foods.</p><p>• Daily variety of greens and vegetables. Rabbits, like other animals, need a daily dose of vitamins and nutrients from natural sources. A variety of green, leafy vegetables provides these much needed nutrients and acts as a special treat for your friend.</p><p>• Fortified alfalfa or timothy pellets: These pellets contain vitamins and nutrients found in fruits and vegetables. If you do not feed your rabbit daily vegetables, adding a small handful of pellets is necessary. The type of pellet to feed depends on the condition and age of the rabbit. Underweight rabbits or bunnies younger than 7 months old should be given alfalfa pellets daily. After the rabbit has reached adulthood or the desired weight, the alfalfa pellets should be slowly changed to high-quality timothy-based pellets to prevent obesity and excess calcium intake.  </p><p>Veggies that can be fed to pet rabbits:<br />• Cilantro<br />• Parsley<br />• Romaine, red leaf, and green leaf lettuces<br />• Celery, including the leaves<br />• Kale<br />• Collard greens<br />• Green bell peppers<br />• Mustard greens</p><h4>Treats</h4><p>Only small amounts of treats should be given to prevent your rabbit from becoming overweight or having gastrointestinal upset from excessive sugars and fat. For example, give only a slice or two of apple, or a 1-inch slice of banana or carrot.  Too many treats overfills the rabbit’s stomach and prevents intake of the fiber content needed to keep the digestive system moving.  Many all-natural, high-fiber treats are available online through rabbit-friendly retailers.</p><h4>Bad for bunnies</h4><p>Many foods that people regularly eat or consider treats are usually not healthy for rabbits.  Nuts contain too much protein and can cause digestive upset as well as fatty liver problems.  Chocolate and onions are poisonous, as they are to most animals, and potatoes are guaranteed to cause obesity, because they fill a rabbit’s stomach and don’t provide the much needed fiber. To prevent food-related health problems, do not give your rabbit any of the following items:</p><p>• Chocolate<br />• Onions<br />• Iceberg lettuce<br />• Potatoes<br />• Radishes<br />• Rhubarb<br />• Cereal<br />• Seeds<br />• Nuts<br />• Bread<br />• Crackers</p><h4>Benefits of proper nutrition</h4><p>Providing rabbits with the proper nutrition is crucial to their health and well-being. Rabbits fed the proper diet are less likely to develop tooth root abscesses and malocclusions, fatty livers, and obesity. If your rabbit changes its eating habits (eg, stops eating hay), you should contact a rabbit-savvy veterinarian as soon as possible.  This can be a sign of an illness, such as arthritis, tooth overgrowth or cancer. Visit the House Rabbit Society at <a href="http://www.rabbit.org/">www.rabbit.org</a> for a plethora of information, or contact your local exotic animal hospital.</p><br />By Deana Mae Nelson for WebVet By Deana Mae Nelson for WebVet Small Animals Bedbug Sex and Violence! http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2239 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2239">Bedbug Sex and Violence!</a><br /><h4>They’re Back!!!!<br /></h4><p>On a recent trip to New York, I discovered that Gotham is under siege by a creature that I grew up believing had disappeared along with the age of nursery rhymes and the Brothers Grimm. “Sleep tight, don’t let the bedbugs bite.”</p><p><br />It turns out that prior to the middle of the twentieth century, bedbugs were very common. Thanks to DDT—toxic to all living things, including bedbugs—we have been free of these nasty pests. But as good environmental citizens, by eliminating the use of DDT we have spawned the return of these little beasts. In fact, they have returned worldwide, hitching rides in suitcases and clothing as we mobile humans travel about, unknowingly providing these creepy-crawlies with free public transportation.</p><p><br />I thought it only fitting to share their entertaining mating habits with you. </p><h4>Bedbug S&M<br /></h4><p>It seems that the male bedbug is equipped with a formidable, swordlike penis which he uses to impale his mate—in her stomach, of all places. No wonder it’s called “traumatic copulation!” His sperm then enters the female’s bloodstream, eventually arriving at a storage gland, where it remains until (and this is where people come into the picture) the female feeds on human blood and produces a clutch of eggs ready to be fertilized. </p><h4>No pain, no gain<br /></h4><p>In wily nature, nothing happens without a benefit. Because the male ejects such copious amounts of sperm, there’s enough left over for lunch. In other words, the female uses part of the male ejaculate as nourishment. As always in the survival-of-the-fittest scheme of things, healthy, well-nourished females produce thriving bedbug babies. </p><p><br />I should mention that there is some compensation provided to the assaulted female. She has evolved something called the Organ of Berlese (named after a famous entomologist—not what you’re thinking). The Organ of Berlese is, “a pad of tissue in the abdomen that assists in repairing the puncture wound.” (A Natural History of Sex by Adrian Forsyth). </p><p><br />Of course the female of the species would have to manufacture her own bandage! And by the way—all that assaultive sex?—the more of it she has, the shorter her life expectancy. Female bedbugs have been known to give the males a wide berth. </p><p><br />“Come here baby, let me show you my witty rapier.”</p><p>“Not tonight, Henry, I’m having my Organ of Berlese time of the month. I’m still getting over my wound from our last date.”</p><p><br />And what does the male get out of all this fierce stabbing and impaling (aside from the moment)? His sperm is in her bloodstream, and short of death by squishing, can’t be eliminated. A giant high-five to the lowly bedbug. He has beat out the competition.</p><h4>Entomologist humor</h4><p>The entomologist Howard Evans remarked, “the image of a covey of bedbugs disporting themselves in this manner while waiting for a blood meal—copulating with either sex and at the same time nourishing each other with their semen—makes Sodom as pure as the Vatican.” </p><p><br />Wait a minute. Did he say copulating with either sex! Yes, yes, that’s right; there are homosexual stabbings and inseminations of male bedbugs too. Actually, here’s where it gets brilliant. When a male stabs another male in the stomach, his sperm travels through the bloodstream to the male sperm duct. When the injured party turns around and has sex with a female, the sperm he ejects is a mixture of his own and that of his male competition. The original stabber makes his victim spread his genes! </p><p><br />This is technically known as “sperm transfer by proxy”. And if you’re thinking that if there’s a term for this then it must be true for other species as well, you’re right: fresh water snails, the acanthocephalan worm?and the list goes on.</p><h4>Parting words of wisdom</h4><p>If, next time you enter your bedroom, you notice an unfamiliar, sordid smell, and, when you awaken in the morning, you discover little, itchy red welts all over your body, you can take some satisfaction in knowing that you have contributed to the well-being and robust baby-making of another species. Once you’ve  realized this—go get some DDT!! (I’m only joking. I kid the bedbugs).</p><p><br />What I will say—because it bears repeating—“Sleep tight, and don’t let the bedbugs bite!”</p><h4>Coming attractions</h4><p>Let’s lighten up the mood and get away from all this nasty violence. Next time, we’ll talk about perfume and pheromones and animal scent and the wicked ways they make living things want to mate with each other.</p><br />By Sally Schloss for WebVet By Sally Schloss for WebVet Small Animals When your pet passes away: coping with loss http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2234 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=2234">When your pet passes away: coping with loss</a><br /><p>Even the dearest friend, loving spouse, or devoted child sometimes falls short of our expectations or causes us pain. The thoughtless remarks, the angry outburst, the unkindest cut, are part and parcel of human relationships. We are, after all, <em>only human</em>.</p><p><br />But unlike people, our animal companions are unfailingly faithful, always devoted and constant, and never judgmental. They have no hidden agendas and no unspoken resentments. They are always happy to see us and don’t know what it means to bear a grudge.</p><p><br />It’s no wonder then that <a href="http://webvet.com/main/article?id=1367" target="_blank" title="Grieving the loss of a pet">when a pet dies</a>, we feel a profound sense of loss and grieve deeply. <a href="http://webvet.com/main/article/id/1501/med/0" target="_blank" title="Coping with pet loss">Coping with that loss</a> can be a challenge and, for some, the challenge may seem overwhelming. </p><h4>Recognizing the stages of grief<br /></h4><p>An important first step is to remember that grieving is a process that no two people experience in exactly the same way. However, those who have studied that process recognize that it has characteristic stages. These were first identified by the Swiss psychologist, Elizabeth Kübler-Ross, in her 1969 book, <em>On Death and Dying</em>. </p><p><br />Although Kübler-Ross was concerned specifically with the grief experienced by people diagnosed with a terminal illness, others have come to recognize that the stages of grief that she identified can occur among those grieving the loss of a loved one, including a pet.</p><p><br />The stages include:</p><ul><li>Denial</li></ul><ul><li>Anger/Guilt</li></ul><ul><li>Bargaining</li></ul><ul><li>Depression</li></ul><ul><li>Acceptance</li></ul><p><br />It is important to remember that not everyone experiences <em>all</em> of these stages, nor does everyone experience them in the same order or to the same degree. Your particular personality as well as the circumstances of your pet’s death -- a protracted illness vs. sudden death; natural causes vs. accident, for example – will determine which of these stages you will experience and the duration of each stage.</p><h4>Denial<br /></h4><p>When told that a pet is terminally ill, some owners, unable to face up to the painful reality, instead deny it: <em>“This can’t be happening. There must be some mistake.” </em> But denying the undeniable usually doesn’t last very long. The second stage soon follows.</p><h4>Anger/Guilt<br /></h4><p>In this stage, the overwhelming feeling is: <em>“It’s just not fair! How can this be? Who is responsible for this?” </em> You may feel responsible for your pet’s illness or death, certain that something you did or failed to do brought it about: <em>“How could I have let this happen? Why didn’t I catch it sooner?”</em></p><h4>Bargaining<br /></h4><p>When told that your pet is terminally ill, you may still harbor the hope that, somehow, you will be able to postpone or delay the inevitable. Often, the plea is made to a higher power: <em>“Oh God, please let him live another year.”</em></p><h4>Depression<br /></h4><p>Once the certainty of your pet’s impending death can no longer be denied, you may sink into depression. Tears flow freely, your usual energy and zest for life seem to have drained away, and the normal day-to-day tasks of everyday life seem like an unbearable burden.</p><h4>Acceptance<br /></h4><p>Ultimately, you <strong>will</strong> come to terms with what has happened or is soon to happen. Your sorrow doesn’t vanish, but it will stop haunting you. Fond memories come to replace the pain of loss and you are no longer burdened by negative emotions.</p><h4>Accept you feelings; seek support<br /></h4><p>Grief is a normal reaction to loss. Don’t feel obligated to <em>‘keep a stiff upper lip.’</em> Be patient with yourself and allow yourself to grieve. Friends and family may, with the best of intentions, urge you to <em>‘get over it.’</em> Thank them for their concern, but explain that you have to grieve in your own way and in your own time and ask them for their patience and support. At times, you will find solace by ‘talking through’ your feelings; at other times, quiet personal reflection will serve you best. You are the best judge of your own needs. </p><p><br />If religion plays a significant role in your life, seek the support of your congregation and clergyman. Don’t assume that they will be dismissive because, after all, it was <em>‘only a pet.’ </em></p><p><br />There are many <strong>pet loss support groups</strong>. Local animal shelters and humane societies should be able to provide you with a referral. <strong>(See sidebar)</strong></p><p><br />If you find that your sense of loss is overwhelming your ability to cope, there are <strong>pet loss support hotlines</strong> with trained counselors who can provide support.</p><p><br />Finally, if you feel that you need professional counseling, don’t hesitate to seek it. A few sessions with a compassionate professional -- a psychologist or social worker -- can go a long way to setting you back on an even keel.</p><h4>Grief is not forever<br /></h4><p>You will always feel some sadness for your loss; that sadness is the price of having loved another creature. But as difficult as it may be to believe while you are suffering so acutely, know this: your grief <strong>will</strong> end and be replaced by loving memories. Give yourself time.</p><p> </p><br />By Peter Lopatin for WebVet By Peter Lopatin for WebVet Small Animals Hamsters need their space, too http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1351 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1351">Hamsters need their space, too</a><br /><p>Known unofficially as “pocket pets,” hamsters are sweet, cute and docile little critters, right? Wrong. Although undeniably adorable, hamsters can be fiercely territorial animals, and will fight if they feel their turf is being invaded. Even males from the same litter will attack each other on occasion. </p><p>Since their domestication in 1930, several varieties of hamsters have become common. The three basic groups that are now popular as pets are the Golden hamster, the shorthaired Fancy hamster, and the longhaired Teddy Bear hamster. Less common, but equally winsome, are the small, dark brown creatures known as Chinese or Dwarf hamsters. These hamsters, often used for biomedical research, are recognizable by both their diminutive size and the distinctive and elegant pattern of black stripes running across their backs. But whatever their markings, coloration, size or breed, hamsters share one common trait: aggression toward their own kind. </p><h4>A day in the life</h4><p>Hamsters are solitary animals, and so are not dependent on the company of other hamsters for their well-being. They dig burrows, create nests and will hibernate if the temperature drops. They are nocturnal, sleeping during the day and becoming active at night, when they search for fruit, vegetables, grains, worms and insects. They carry and hoard their food in their large cheek pouches.</p><p>Hamsters use their flank organs (glands located in the hip region) for marking territory. They can grow anxious and alarmed if their food stashes have been moved or depleted. Fearless in combat, they will bite, claw and scratch their perceived enemies. </p><h4>Female aggression</h4><p>This aggression is not restricted to males. Females are bigger than males, and they are also more aggressive. They have been known to kill their mates, and even their young. For this reason, it’s best to house hamsters in separate cages, except during breeding. In fact, breeding is one of the few instances in which hamsters do not display aggression toward each other. (Lactation is the other.) Often, the chattering of teeth and a high-pitched shriek precedes an attack; any hamsters exhibiting this behavior should be separated immediately. </p><p>If the female is bred, it’s essential to provide her with ample nesting and bedding, as well as plenty of fresh food and water before the babies are born. Once the babies arrive, she should not be disturbed for at least a week. When a mother hamster feels threatened, she may respond by killing and eating her young. Or she may stuff the pups into her cheek pouches and frantically tote them around the cage, trying to find a secure place in which to establish a nest. The newborn pups can easily suffocate as a result, especially if they are in cheeks for any length of time. </p><p>So while hamsters can make entertaining and engaging pets, it’s crucial to understand the impulses that govern their behavior and to handle them accordingly. Keeping hamsters in discreet environments will help ensure both their safety and longevity. </p><br />By Yona Zeldis McDonough for WebVet By Yona Zeldis McDonough for WebVet Small Animals