http://www.webvet.com/main/showArticles/page/20 This feed contains articles about Small Animal Breed Finder en-us Copyright 2009 Webvet, LLC 2009-11-07T11:20-05:00 advertise@webvet.com advertise@webvet.com Small Animal Breed Finder hourly http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1544 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1544">Hedgehog</a><br /><h4>What to expect from your Hedgehog</h4><p>Hedgehogs are noiseless, odorless, inoffensive and nondestructive in their manner. They are nocturnal and therefore are active in the evenings. If they are allowed to run in the house, they tend to hide in corners or under furniture. Many hedgehogs dig in carpets or in houseplant dirt, if accessible, and will forage for spiders and insects in the home. Most hedgehogs prefer dim, quiet environments and may react with fright at loud noises or bright lights. Hedgehogs are solitary by nature. When encountering something new in the environment a hedgehog may &quot;taste'' it, then begin hypersalivating and create a foam, which it then spits onto itself. The process is called &quot;anting'' or &quot;anointing.'' Most owners will promptly rinse or bathe the hedgehog to get rid of the material.</p><h4>Vital statistics</h4><ul><li>Body length: 7 inches (17 cm)</li></ul><ul><li>Body weight: male African: 500-600 g, female African: 250-400 g, male European: 800-1200 g, female European: 400-800 g </li><li>Sexual maturity: 3 months</li><li>Maximum life span: 4-7 years</li></ul><h4>What should you feed your Hedgehog?</h4><p>The hedgehog diet is omnivorous, high in protein and low in fat. High fat foods adversely affect the hedgehog's health and longevity. To minimize obesity, ad lib feeding of adults should be discouraged. One should feed in the evening a portion size that is almost completely consumed by morning. Only a small amount of food needs to be present during the day for a snack.</p><p>A sample diet for an adult hedgehog for one day is: 2-3 tablespoons dry (or mixture of dry and canned) reduced-calorie cat food; 1-2 tablespoons mixed fresh vegetables and 3-5 insects 3-4 times a week. Invertebrates are important to the diet, especially for breeding sows, and may include mealworms, worms, insects and crickets. </p><p>Commercial complete hedgehog diets are being developed and should be used if available. To introduce individuals to new diets, mix new foods gradually into the old. It helps to have all chunks or pieces of the new and old diets the same size and relative consistency.</p><h4>Is your Hedgehog a male or a female?</h4><p>Males have a midventral penis and abdominal testicles.</p><h4>What do Hedgehogs do all day?</h4><p>Hedgehogs need liberal exercise and are competent climbers. Logs can be arranged in the enclosure to form caves, tunnels and arches. They will use exercise wheels but do not &quot;play'' with toys. When at ease and during warm weather, hedgehogs like to sleep in a half-ball position or completely flat, legs outstretched.</p><h4>Are Hedgehogs tame?</h4><p>Although the African pygmy hedgehog is being commercially bred and raised, it is essentially non-domesticated and is an extremely timid and nervous animal. Young hedgehogs do not mind being held, but many adults, especially males, struggle to be let loose. Their first defense is to roll up into a tight ball of crisscrossed spines, with the head and legs in the center of the ball. Hedgehogs are not aggressive, but they may bite if provoked. Adults also vocalize with a hissing sound when bothered. Some hedgehogs will uncurl with back stroking of rump spines, a quiet environment and subdued lighting.</p><h4>How to keep your Hedgehog healthy, happy and safe</h4><ul><li>Feed once a day in the late afternoon or early evening, preferably in heavy crocks. </li><li>Fresh water must be available at all times, offered either from a sipper bottle or crock.</li><li>Prevent obesity. Ad lib feeding may not be appropriate. Weigh hedgehog at least monthly.</li><li>Take your hedgehog to an exotic animal veterinarian for an annual physical examination.</li><li>Routinely brush its teeth and provide veterinary scaling.</li><li>Prevent chilling; provide heated environment with dry bedding.</li><li>Clean toys frequently.</li><li>Handle a tame hedgehog every day to keep it tame.</li></ul><h4>Housing for your African pygmy hedgehog should:</h4><ul><li>be a smooth-walled enclosure that is high enough to prevent escape. Aquariums 20 gallon or larger are acceptable</li><li>contain newspaper or recycled material bedding to a depth of several inches and should be changed frequently and kept dry</li><li>be maintained in the optimum environmental temperature range of 75-85 F </li><li>include accessories for climbing/hiding: box, untreated fruit tree log or flower pot</li><li>contain a pan or shallow tub (warm water, warm ambient temperature) for swimming</li><li>offer smooth clean rocks for spreading out on, gnawing, scratching and as face-rubbing surfaces </li></ul><h4>It is important to prevent hedgehogs from accessing:</h4><ul><li>wire flooring in its enclosure</li><li>wire rodent exercise wheels</li><li>cat or dog food as sole diet</li><li>sawdust, pine or cedar shavings</li><li>wet bedding</li><li>garden soil (may contain parasites)</li><li>dogs, cats and young children</li><li>pesticides and other toxins</li><li>electrical cords</li><li>tobacco and cigarette smoke</li><li>toxic houseplants</li></ul><h4>What your veterinarian looks for in a healthy Hedgehog</h4><ul><li>Clear, bright eyes (no discharge)</li><li>Mouth free of discharge</li><li>Nails of appropriate length</li><li>Firm, lean body</li><li>Body free of lumps and bumps</li></ul><h4>Most common disorders of African Pygmy Hedgehogs</h4><ul><li>Obesity</li><li>Dermatitis/mange mites</li><li>Pneumonia</li><li>Tumors (especially over 3 years of age)</li><li>Enteritis</li><li>Fatty liver</li><li>Dental problems</li><li>Potential carrier of Salmonella</li><li>Internal parasites</li></ul><p>Many common disease conditions in hedgehogs are the result of malnutrition. Visiting your exotic animal veterinarian for routine health checks will help prevent many diseases and support you in having a long, satisfying relationship with your hedgehog. For help in finding a small mammal veterinarian in your area, contact the <a href="http://www.AEMV.org" target="_blank">Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians</a>.</p><h4>Background information</h4><p>Hedgehogs are indigenous to Europe, Africa and Asia. Two distinct hedgehog species are available to the pet trade: the African or white-bellied hedgehog, which is the most common in the United States, and the European hedgehog. Free-ranging hedgehogs are hardy animals that live in scrub, deciduous forests, rocky grasslands and deserts. Hedgehogs eat very little plant matter, preferring instead insects, spiders, slugs, snails, worms and grubs. They nest under shrubs and rocks or in burrows. Their sense of smell is highly developed. The body and crown of hedgehogs are covered in short, smooth spines while their underside is soft white fur. The spines of young hedgehogs are sharper than those of mature animals. To reduce the potential risk of Salmonella infection, clients should wash their hands after handling a pet hedgehog and avoid the animal's contact with human food or cooking utensils.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><br />Zoological Education Network Zoological Education Network Small Animal Breed Finder http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1826 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1826">Guinea Pig</a><br /><h4>What to expect from your Guinea Pig<br /></h4><p>Guinea pigs are intelligent and quiet animals. As a solitary pet, it may bond closely to you, greeting you with chirps, purrs, squeaks or whistles. Guinea pigs do not require as much of your time as some other pets, but the more time you spend with them, the more interactive they will be. They are very active creatures and enjoy running through tunnels and negotiating mazes. They may play with toys, and if you have more than one guinea pig, they will play games of chase with each other. Guinea pigs are social animals and will establish a pecking order, frequently male-dominated. Overcrowding may incite aggression, and non-castrated males may be aggressive towards other males in the presence of females. Guinea pigs do not adapt well to changes in their food or environment. Hair barbering (chewing of the fur) may occur in situations of stress and overcrowding.</p><h4>Vital statistics</h4><ul><li>Body length: 12 inches (310 mm)</li><li>Body weight: 750-1200 g</li><li>Sexual maturity: Male: 3-4 months, Female: 2-3 months</li><li>Average life span: 5-8 years</li></ul><h4>Is your Guinea pig a male or female?<br /></h4><p>To determine the sex of your guinea pig, examine its external genitalia: male guinea pigs have large scrotal sacs, and their penis can be easily extruded with gentle pressure, while females have a vaginal membrane. Females are usually smaller than males.</p><h4>What should you feed your Guinea pig?</h4><p>Unlike other animals, guinea pigs are not able to synthesize vitamin C on their own; therefore, a dietary source of vitamin C must be provided daily. Commercial pellets specially formulated for guinea pigs contain vitamin C, but the level may be affected by storage conditions or time. You can provide supplementation with a quarter of an orange or a small amount of kale or cabbage daily to ensure adequate vitamin C intake. Fresh timothy or alfalfa hay may be offered for additional fiber. HEALx products* may be beneficial to guinea pigs. If the nails or teeth of guinea pigs need to be trimmed regularly, evaluate the diet, as it may be inadequate.</p><p>Guinea pigs should have fresh, filtered drinking water in a water bottle at all times. Check the water bottle frequently because they like to play with the sipper tube, which may cause leakage. Sometimes they even push food up into the sipper tube.</p><h4>Where should you house your Guinea Pig?</h4><p>Your guinea pig's cage should be at least 1 x 2 feet (30 x 60 cm), but the larger the space, the better. The sides of the enclosure should be at least 12 inches (30 cm) high. Because guinea pigs do not jump or climb, they can be housed in an open-topped enclosure, such as a plastic children's pool, as long as dogs or cats do not have access to it.</p><p>The best flooring for guinea pigs is solid, covered with dust-free bedding of either soft wood shavings (aspen, for example), shredded paper, hay or commercial bedding pellets. While their fecal pellets are relatively odorless, bedding should be changed weekly to control urine odors. Cavies are very sensitive to the ammonia in urine.</p><h4>What do Guinea pigs do all day?</h4><p>Guinea pigs like quiet environments and appreciate having a box or tunnel in which to hide and rest. Your guinea pig will enjoy supervised exercise outside its cage. Like all rodents, guinea pigs explore their world through nibbling on new items; therefore, you should check their play area for any potential hazards.</p><p>How to keep your Guinea pig healthy, happy and safe!</p><ul><li>Provide fresh food and water daily.</li><li>Keep diet stable and minimize treat variety.</li><li>Ensure a daily source of vitamin C in the diet, either in guinea pig pellets or as a supplement.</li><li>Remove fresh food that is not eaten within a half hour.</li><li>Take your guinea pig to an exotic animal veterinarian annually for a physical exam.</li><li>If your guinea pig has long hair, comb it daily and keep it clipped and clean.</li><li>Check droppings for evidence of illness: abnormally dry feces may indicate dehydration or constipation, while abnormally soft feces indicate diarrhea.</li></ul><h4>Housing for your Guinea pig should:<br /></h4><ul><li>be set up in a quiet part of the house</li><li>be maintained in an ambient temperature 55-90 F</li><li>include suitable substrates, such as shredded paper (non-inked), recycled newspaper composite materials or pellets, hardwood chips or shavings and compressed wheat straw; cedar chips should be avoided as they may be toxic</li><li>be cleaned with a change of bedding material every few days</li><li>offer some sunlight with access to shade to prevent overheating</li><li>include a box or tunnel for hiding and resting</li><li>include items for chewing, such as fruit trees branches, which will help keep the teeth worn properly</li></ul><h4>It is important to prevent guinea pigs from accessing:</h4><ul><li>electrical cords</li><li>dogs, cats, ferrets and young children</li><li>pesticides and other toxins</li><li>tobacco and cigarette smoke</li><li>cedar or pine shavings</li><li>toxic houseplants</li><li>wire exercise wheels</li><li>plastic toys that can be broken apart and consumed</li><li>wire flooring in its enclosure</li><li>furniture</li><li>refined sugars</li><li>leaded paint and wood varnish</li><li>galvanized metal</li></ul><h4>What your veterinarian looks for in a healthy Guinea pig:<br /></h4><ul><li>Clear eyes with no discharge</li><li>Clean, dry nose</li><li>Proper occlusion of teeth</li><li>Clean and unmatted fur</li><li>An active and curious disposition</li><li>Skin free of rashes, sores, bruises or hair loss</li><li>Soft pink feet with no sores</li></ul><h4>Most common disorders of Guinea pigs:<br /></h4><ul><li>Vitamin C deficiency signs, such as bone and tooth abnormalities, abnormal bruises or hemorrhages</li><li>Overgrown teeth/malocclusion</li><li>Diarrhea/enteritis</li><li>Anorexia/weight loss</li><li>Pneumonia</li><li>Pododermatitis (foot infections)</li><li>Abortion/pregnancy toxemia/dystocia</li><li>Pregnancy-associated hair loss</li><li>Dermatophytosis (&ldquo;ringworm&rdquo;)/mange dermatitis</li><li>Arthritis/septicemia</li><li>Bite wounds (if group housed)</li></ul><p>Many common disease conditions in guinea pigs are the result of malnutrition. Visiting your exotic animal veterinarian for routine health checks will help prevent many diseases and support you in having a long, satisfying relationship with your guinea pig. For help in finding a small mammal veterinarian in your area, contact <a href="http://www.AEMV.org" target="_blank" title="Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians">the Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians</a>.</p><h4>Background information</h4><p>The guinea pig, or cavy, is a rodent that comes from South America. It is related to the chinchilla and porcupine. Guinea pigs are not endangered or threatened in the wild. In South America, guinea pigs are often hunted or raised for meat, but free-ranging animals are not trapped for the pet trade. In the United States, the guinea pig is kept as a pet and also used in research. Hobbyists breed purebred guinea pigs for shows, but pet stores usually sell cross-bred animals. There are eleven guinea pig breeds recognized in the show ring, including American/English, White-crested, Abyssinian (cover), Peruvian, Silky and Teddy (inside). Guinea pigs are not aggressive, preferring to flee in the face of danger rather than bite or scratch. They are sensitive creatures and can become panicked if startled by abrupt and loud noises.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><br />Zoological Education Network Zoological Education Network Small Animal Breed Finder http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1820 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1820">Chinchilla</a><br /><h4>What to expect from your Chinchilla</h4><p>Chinchillas are intelligent, charming creatures that quickly become bonded to their owners. They are easy to care for and have little odor. Basically nocturnal, chinchillas can be active during the day. They are fast, agile climbers, and they love to investigate everything, chewing up bits of paper, cardboard, or untreated wood along the way. Although chinchillas tend to urinate in their cage or litter box, they are difficult to litter-train with respect to their small, hard, dry fecal pellets, which are produced in abundance. However, the fecal pellets are easy to remove and have little odor. One peculiarity of chinchillas is their need to bathe in fine dust. Bath dust is commercially available, and at least once or twice a week, the chinchilla should be allowed to roll (bathe) in the dust. When chinchillas are stressed, they will chew their fur off, a process referred to as &ldquo;fur-barbering.&rdquo; Diarrhea (soft droppings) may also occur in an unhappy chinchilla.</p><h4>Vital statistics</h4><ul><li>Total body length: 8-10 inches (20-25 cm)</li><li>Total body weight: 1-2 lbs (453-907 g) (female is larger than male)</li><li>Sexual maturity: 7-10 months</li><li>Life span: 9-17 years</li></ul><h4>Are Chinchillas tame?</h4><p>Chinchillas are one of the most affectionate rodents. They rarely bite and prefer to be cuddled and carried. Only if they feel trapped or are restrained against their will, will they bite aggressively. However, a cornered or angry chinchilla will rear up on its hind legs and spray urine at the aggressor. </p><p>A chinchilla that is trying to escape can release clumps of fur from its body, leaving a large bald patch. The fur will grow back with time. </p><h4>Is your Chinchilla a male or a female?</h4><p>Male chinchillas do not have a scrotum, and the testes mostly remain in the abdominal cavity. The easiest way to sex these rodents is by the anogenital distance: female chinchillas have a very short distance between their anus and their urinary and reproductive opening, while males have a gap between their anus and their penis. Female chinchillas should be bred young or their pelvis will fuse and they may have difficulty giving birth.</p><h4>What should you feed your Chinchilla?</h4><p>A commercial pelleted diet formulated for chinchillas and unlimited timothy hay provides an adequate diet for chinchillas. Adults require 1 to 2 tablespoons of pellets daily. Small amounts of alfalfa (loose or cubed) may also be provided. Treats such as raisins, fresh carrot or green vegetables may be offered sparingly, but sunflower seeds, peanuts, and other fatty foods should be avoided to prevent obesity. A sipper tube or water bottle is the best way to provide a clean, plentiful supply of water. </p><h4>Where should you house your Chinchilla?</h4><p>Chinchillas are very active, and are able to leap 3 feet (91 cm) straight up in the air. The larger the cage, the better&mdash;one that is 3 x 2 x 2 feet (1 x 0.6 x 0.6 m) is a good starting point. Welded wire mesh is acceptable, with solid flooring in one area. Multiple levels should be provided in the cage for jumping and climbing&mdash;wooden perches or non-pesticide laden tree branches work well. </p><h4>How to keep your Chinchilla healthy, happy and safe!</h4><ul><li>Allow chinchillas to sleep in the daytime (they are nocturnal).</li><li>Schedule a daily exercise/play time with direct contact of 30-60 minutes.</li><li>Provide dust baths only, not water baths.</li><li>Supervise fully when the chinchilla is out of its enclosure.</li><li>Offer a consistent diet to prevent gastrointestinal upset.</li><li>Provide safe wood objects or branches for gnawing as their teeth grow continuously throughout life.</li><li>Restrain gently to avoid fur &ldquo;slip.&rdquo;</li><li>Schedule regular veterinary visits, especially for dental checks.</li></ul><p>Housing for your chinchilla should:</p><ul><li>provide a cool and dry environment (optimal temperature is 50-68 F with humidity less than 40%)</li><li>provide space for a dust box (sheet metal = 6 x 6 x 9 inches) </li><li>include a hiding box in a top corner for sleeping</li><li>be separate for each chinchilla</li><li>include suitable substrates, such as shredded paper (non-inked), recycled newspaper composite materials or pellets, hardwood chips or shavings and compressed wheat straw. Cedar chips should be avoided as they may be toxic</li><li>have multi-level perches or pesticide-free branches for climbing</li><li>be as large as possible as chinchillas are active, agile creatures</li></ul><p>It is important to prevent chinchillas from accessing:</p><ul><li>electrical cords </li><li>dogs, cats, ferrets and other potential predators </li><li>direct sunlight</li><li>temperatures higher than 80&deg;F </li><li>water baths</li><li>hay with mold, insects, insecticides or fecal contamination</li><li>high-fat treats</li><li>unsupervised freedom in the home</li></ul><h4>What your veterinarian looks for in a healthy chinchilla:</h4><ul><li>Large, bright eyes with no discharge</li><li>Teeth aligned properly</li><li>Pink foot pads, no evidence of sores</li><li>Alert and active, inquisitive</li><li>Fluffy, dense fur all over</li><li>Round, chubby body</li><li>No matting or missing patches of fur</li></ul><h4>Most common disorders of Chinchillas:</h4><ul><li>Ringworm</li><li>Trauma (broken bones, wounds) </li><li>Diarrhea/constipation </li><li>Colds/eye infections </li><li>Convulsions </li><li>Tooth problems (abnormal growth) </li><li>Penile hair rings in males </li><li>&ldquo;Fur barbering&rdquo; from stress</li><li>Heat stroke</li><li>Choking/bloating</li><li>Heart problems</li></ul><p>Although chinchillas are basically hardy and suffer from few serious illnesses, regular health checks should be scheduled with an exotic animal veterinarian to prevent problems and to promote a long, satisfying relationship with your pet. For help in finding a small mammal veterinarian in your area, contact the <a href="http://www.AEMV.org" target="_blank" title="Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians">Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians</a>.</p><h4>Background information</h4><p>Free-ranging chinchillas live in caves under rocks in the South American Andes Mountains. They thrive in low temperature and low humidity environments. Chinchillas have been raised domestically for fur for many decades. Chinchilla fur is considered the softest in the world. The fur is so dense that skin parasites, such as cleas, cannot live and the pet industry is supplied by hobby breeders. The most common species in captivity is Chinchilla lanigera. Chinchillas are rodents and are more related to guinea pigs than to rabbits. They are characterized by their large hind feet, chubby round bodies, soft dense fur, large eyes and ears, long whiskers and squirrel-like tails. The original silver-gray color now shares popularity with color mutations, such as black, white, charcoal, beige and tan.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><br />Zoological Education Network Zoological Education Network Small Animal Breed Finder http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1827 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1827">Gerbil</a><br /><h4>What to expect from your pet Gerbil<br /></h4><p>Gerbils tend to be friendly, clean, quiet and curious pets. They rarely bite and can be easily handled. They have low odor and little waste production. Their small size reduces concerns about space requirements. With proper husbandry, gerbils rarely exhibit problems in captivity.</p><p>Because gerbils are very quick movers and tend to jump, they should be supported on the palm of the hand with the base of the tail held close to their body. The handler should avoid grasping the tip of the tail because the skin may pull off the tail. The gerbil may be restrained by scruffing the skin at the nape of the neck or by using a washcloth or other small cloth in which to hold it.</p><h4>Vital Statistics</h4><ul><li>Body length (no tail): 3-6 inches (7-15 cm)</li><li>Total body weight: 50-80 grams (females), 80-130 grams (males)</li><li>Age of sexual maturity: 65-85 days</li><li>Average life span in captivity: 3-5 years</li></ul><h4>What do Gerbils do all day?<br /></h4><p>Like all rodents, gerbils need to have safe materials for gnawing that will help wear down the continually growing incisor teeth. Wooden blocks for this purpose are readily available at most pet stores. An exercise wheel with solid flooring provides an outlet for energy, and exercise balls allow the gerbil to explore in a safe plastic ball. Gerbils like to build nests out of nesting material, especially in the cooler winter months. A common characteristic of pet gerbils is their propensity to dig incessantly with their forepaws in the corner of the cage. They also thump with their hind legs.</p><h4>Is your Gerbil a male or female?</h4><p>Male gerbils have a large, dark scrotum and a longer anogenital distance than females. Breeding pairs tend to be monogamous and maintain lifelong relationships. It is best to acquaint gerbils with one another before they are 8 weeks of age to try to prevent fighting. Adult gerbils of either sex may fight to the death if they are introduced to each other as adults. Ensuring adequate cage space is also important to eliminating fighting. It is best to house gerbils as a pair; neutering the male can prevent overpopulation. Two same sex gerbils (preferably from the same litter) can be successfully housed together.</p><h4>What should you feed your Gerbil?</h4><p>Commercial pellet diets are available for gerbils. Alternatively, commercial seed mixes with a variety of seeds (minimal to no sunflower seeds) may be fed with fresh vegetables (e.g., cabbage, kale, broccoli, carrots, beets) and soaked seeds or sprouts. Alfalfa hay should be available for grazing and is a good calcium source for nursing females. Excessive consumption of sunflower seeds and other high-fat foods will lead to obesity and other health problems.</p><p>Fresh clean drinking water should always be available. A sipper tube or small water bottle mounted on the outside of the cage with the drinking spout on the inside is ideal to prevent chewing on the bottle itself.</p><h4>Where should you house your Gerbil?</h4><p>Plexiglas enclosures designed for small rodents make adequate houses for gerbils; however, a regular cleaning schedule must be maintained. Solid flooring is preferable to wire flooring. A clean, dry, absorbent and nonabrasive bedding (e.g., aspen wood shavings) of at least 2 cm deep is recommended. Providing 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark is a good schedule for lighting. The ideal temperature should be between 60-70 F with 30-50% humidity.</p><h4>How to keep your Gerbil healthy, happy and safe!</h4><ul><li>Prompt veterinary care should be sought for any sign of illness.</li><li>Gerbils require a minimum of attention. Thirty minutes a day should be adequate, although they remain tame with frequent handling.</li><li>Fresh food and water should be available at all times.</li><li>The cage must be thoroughly cleaned at least weekly.</li><li>Provide safe items for chewing, such as toilet paper tubes, ceramic toys, pesticide-free and nontoxic tree branches and bark.</li><li>Provide suitable materials for nesting, such as tissue paper, cotton balls, paper torn in strips.</li></ul><h4>Housing for your gerbil should:<br /></h4><ul><li>allow for 36 square inches (232 cm2) per gerbil as a minimum cage size; a minimum of 180 square inches (0.12 m2) for a breeding pair</li><li>have cage sides at least 6 inches (14 cm) high</li><li>be escape-proof</li><li>contain a hide box</li><li>include suitable substrates, such as shredded paper (non-inked), recycled newspaper composite materials or pellets, hardwood chips or shavings and compressed wheat straw. Cedar chips should be avoided as they may be toxic</li><li>include a water bottle even though they are desert animals and drink less than other rodents</li></ul><h4>It is important to prevent gerbils from accessing:<br /></h4><ul><li>electrical cords</li><li>dogs, cats, ferrets and young children</li><li>pesticides and other toxins</li><li>tobacco and cigarette smoke</li><li>cedar or pine shavings</li><li>toxic houseplants</li><li>wire exercise wheels</li><li>plastic toys that can be broken apart and consumed</li><li>wire flooring in its enclosure</li><li>exposure to direct sunlight or temperatures over 90 F </li></ul><h4>What your veterinarian looks for in a healthy Gerbil:<br /></h4><ul><li>Clear bright eyes</li><li>Well formed and stocky body</li><li>Teeth that are aligned properly and not overgrown</li><li>No evidence of lumps or bumps</li><li>A smooth and shiny hair coat</li><li>Sense of curiosity</li><li>Clean anus with no evidence of diarrhea</li><li>Well-formed fecal pellet</li></ul><h4>Most common disorders of Gerbils<br /></h4><ul><li>Trauma (including tail slip)</li><li>Malnutrition</li><li>Rough hair coat</li><li>Sore nose/facial eczema/nasal dermatitis</li><li>Epileptiform seizures</li><li>Diarrhea/enteritis</li><li>Sudden death</li><li>Malocclusion</li><li>Cancer/neoplasia</li><li>Obesity</li></ul><p>Having your gerbil examined on a regular basis by an exotic animal veterinarian will help prevent many of the common disorders listed above and support you in having a long, satisfying relationship with your gerbil. For help in finding a small mammal veterinarian in your area, contact the <a href="http://www.AEMV.org" target="_blank" title="Assocation of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians">Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians</a>.</p><h4>Background information</h4><p>There are 15 gerbil species worldwide, of which the Mongolian gerbil (Meriones unguiculatus) is the prevalent pet species in the United States. Mongolian gerbils are native to desert regions of Mongolia and northeastern China. They are active both day and night, but peak activity is at night. They are social animals that live in elaborate underground tunnel systems and burrows. All pet gerbils are captive bred for this market. They make appropriate pets for beginners, and their natural curiosity makes them interesting to watch as they explore their environments. Gerbils are available in a variety of color types: agouti (the free-ranging type or normal color), black, albino, white, cinnamon, lilac, blue, cream, silver and sable. Spotted gerbils with multiple coat colors are also popular.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><br />Zoological Education Network Zoological Education Network Small Animal Breed Finder http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1815 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1815">Sugar Glider</a><br /><h4>What to expect from your Sugar Glider</h4><p>Sugar gliders make interesting pets. They are about the size of a hamster with soft fur. They are very social animals and are best kept with at least one other sugar glider. If kept alone, they require considerable playing attention and social interaction with their owners. Being nocturnal, their eyes are very large, and they prefer dim lighting. They have specialized incisors designed to gouge trees to extract sap, so they need branches to chew. They have several distinctive vocalizations, from alarm yaps and hisses to low barking groans, screams and high squeaks.<span style="font-weight: normal; font-size: 13px; color: #3d3d3d; line-height: 16px" class="Apple-style-span"> <h4><span style="font-size: 16px; color: #000000; line-height: normal; font-family: Verdana" class="Apple-style-span"><span style="font-size: 13px; color: #3d3d3d; line-height: 16px; font-family: Arial" class="Apple-style-span">V</span><span style="font-size: 13px; color: #3d3d3d; line-height: 16px; font-family: Arial" class="Apple-style-span">ital Statistics</span></span></h4></span></p><ul><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d; line-height: 16px" class="Apple-style-span"><span style="line-height: normal" class="Apple-style-span">Total length: 11 inches (28 cm)</span></span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Body length: 5 inches (13 cm)</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Body weight: 90-130 grams</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Age of sexual maturity: Male: 12-14 months, Female: 8-12 months</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Life span: 10-14 years</span></li></ul><h4>Is your Sugar Glider male or female?</h4><p>Check the lower abdomen for a pouch opening in the female or for the fur-covered testicles in the male; the bifurcated (forked) penis is located at the base of the tail. Males develop a scent gland on the forehead, which they may rub on the female&rsquo;s chest. Males also have anal glands and scent glands on the chest. Both sexes scent-mark territory in a freshly cleaned enclosure. </p><p>Sugar gliders breed relatively easily in captivity. The gestation period is only 16 days, at which time the infants make their way to the pouch where they attach to a nipple and stay for 2 months. Ten days after they emerge from the pouch they open their eyes. They wean a month after that but remain in the parental nest. Males help with the care and feeding of the babies.</p><h4>Are Sugar Gliders tame?</h4><p>Sugar gliders should be socialized by the breeder when they are very young. They usually are not provoked to bite, although they may investigate fingers with their mouth. Tame sugar gliders bond with their owners and like to ride around in pockets. </p><h4>What do Sugar Gliders do all day?</h4><p>Sugar gliders sleep during the day and are active at night. Relative to other animals, their cage should be extremely large with many branches and perches for exercise. They should be let out of their cage every evening for supervised play with their owners. During the day they need a wooden nest box in which to sleep.</p><h4>What should your Sugar Glider eat?</h4><p>Sugar gliders should be fed a variety of foods appropriate for insectivorous/carnivorous animals. A commercially prepared insectivorous diet should be fed up to 50% of the total intake, particularly for active breeders. Leadbeater&rsquo;s mixture (see recipe below)&nbsp;can be cooked and fed as the other primary food source (approximately 25%). In addition, 20-25% of the daily intake by volume can be made of chopped produce &mdash; specifically apple, grapes, mango, papaya, carrot, sweet potato &mdash; dusted with a vitamin/mineral powder. </p><p>Approximately 5-10% of the daily intake may include hard-cooked egg yolk or a variety of pet industry-raised insects (crickets, mealworms, waxworms or moths, all fed calcium-enriched feed or dusted with a mineral supplement). Nectars formulated for lories (a nectar-eating parrot) can be given as a fruit portion substitute or as an occasional treat. </p><p><span style="color: #3d3d3d; line-height: 16px" class="Apple-style-span"><span style="line-height: normal" class="Apple-style-span">Leadbeater&rsquo;s Mixture:</span></span></p><ul><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">150 ml warm water</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">150 ml honey</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">1 shelled hard-boiled egg</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">25 g high protein baby cereal</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">1 tsp vitamin/mineral supplement</span></li></ul><p>Mix warm water and honey. In separate container, blend egg until homogenized; gradually add honey/water, then vitamin powder, then baby cereal, blending after each addition until smooth. Refrigerate.</p><h4>How to keep your Sugar Glider healthy, happy and safe</h4><ul><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d; line-height: 16px" class="Apple-style-span"><span style="line-height: normal" class="Apple-style-span">Purchase a captive-raised animal because it is usually healthier, of known age, and has adapted as a companion animal.</span></span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Take your sugar glider to an exotic animal veterinarian for a physical examination and fecal check for parasites.</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Keep environmental temperature between 70-90 F.</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Heat supplementation to an area of the sugar glider&rsquo;s cage is necessary in most homes.</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Frequently clean enclosure and nest box so feces and urine won&rsquo;t accumulate.</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Feed fresh food in the evening.</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Provide fresh water every day in a crock (elevated off the floor of the cage to prevent contamination) or sipper bottle.</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Provide branches from nontoxic trees, such as apple or citrus, for climbing and chewing.</span></li></ul><h4>Housing for your Sugar Glider should:</h4><ul><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">be as large as possible, at least 2 cubic feet in size (24&rdquo; x 24&rdquo; x 48&rdquo;).</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">have wire sides with spacing no more than 1 inch square to prevent escape.</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">have a wire bottom and pull out tray for easy cleaning.</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">include a tamper-free cage door lock.</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">provide nest boxes that are attached high in the cage.</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">have shredded paper towels or recycled newspaper pelleted bedding material to line nest box.</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">have food and water crocks located to prevent contamination (not underneath branches).</span></li></ul><h4>It is important to prevent Sugar Gliders from accessing:</h4><ul><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">excessive fat in the diet (peanuts, seeds)</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">chocolate, refined sugars</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">processed human foods with preservatives</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">pesticides</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">cedar shavings</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">branches from toxic trees</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">bright lights or direct, unfiltered/unshaded sunlight</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">excessive humidity</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">dogs, cats, ferrets and small children</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">unsupervised freedom in the home</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">rapid changes in temperature</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">uncovered light bulbs</span></li></ul><h4>What your veterinarian looks for in a healthy Sugar Glider</h4><ul><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d; line-height: 16px" class="Apple-style-span"><span style="line-height: normal" class="Apple-style-span">Bright eyes</span></span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Moist, pink nose</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Pink gums and mucous membranes</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Clear ear canals</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Ability to grip with all four feet</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Smooth fur coat</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Good elasticity of gliding membrane</span></li></ul><h4>Most common disorders of Sugar Gliders</h4><ul><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Malnutrition</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Trauma (fractures, injuries)</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Self-inflicted wounds (particularly solitary animals)</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Stress-related disease: coprophagia (eating fecal material), hyperphagia (overeating), polydipsia (overdrinking), behavioral signs such as pacing, self-chewing</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Intestinal parasites</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Pneumonia</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Diarrhea, gastroenteritis, constipation/impaction</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Hind leg paralysis</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Blindness/cataracts</span></li><li><span style="color: #3d3d3d" class="Apple-style-span">Burns (from landing on hot lamp bulbs)</span></li></ul><p>Many common disease conditions in sugar gliders are the result of improper feeding. Visiting your exotic animal veterinarian for routine health checks will help prevent many diseases and support you in having a long, satisfying relationship with your sugar glider. For help in finding a veterinarian in your area who has experience with sugar gliders, visit the <a href="http://www.isga.org" target="_blank" title="International Sugar Glider Association">International Sugar Glider Association</a> (ISGA) and click on &ldquo;Veterinarians.&rdquo;</p><h4>Background Information</h4><p>Sugar gliders are tiny marsupials that are native to New Guinea and Australia. They inhabit open forests, where they live in trees as family units. Sugar gliders move from tree to tree using their gliding membrane that extends from their forepaws to their ankles. In this respect only, they resemble the American flying squirrel. Their furry tail helps serve as a rudder and is somewhat prehensile. Free-ranging sugar gliders are omnivorous. Their natural diet in the winter includes the &ldquo;sugary&rdquo; sap of various eucalyptus trees. During the rest of the year, they are primarily insectivorous, feasting on moths, beetles, insect larvae and spiders. Fruit is not a major component of the free-ranging diet. Being a marsupial, sugar gliders bear young that complete their development in an external pouch. Before purchasing a sugar glider, one should inquire about state and local laws regarding ownership and obtain proper permits or licenses.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><br />Zoological Education Network Zoological Education Network Small Animal Breed Finder http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1824 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1824">Hamster</a><br /><h4>What to expect from your Hamster<br /></h4><p>Hamsters are small, appealing pets that adapt well to captivity. They do not require a lot of living space and are relatively inexpensive to maintain. With frequent, gentle handling a hamster can easily become tame. However, they are nocturnal animals and will not tolerate being held still for long. Hamsters may bite or show aggression in response to rough handling, sudden disturbances, being around other hamsters (especially female hamsters that are pregnant or lactating), or when they are ill or in pain. </p><p>To hold your hamster, care must be taken to maintain gentle control and prevent being bitten. They can be scruffed by the abundant loose skin at the nape of the neck, held in the hands (if friendly), or placed in a small container. A small cloth may help restrain the rodent without the handler being bitten.</p><p>A unique characteristic of hamsters is the presence of cheek pouches, which are used to store and transport food to the hamster's burrow. Similar to other species of rodents, hamsters have four incisor teeth, which grow throughout life. For tooth health, it is important to provide a good diet and to offer safe items in the enclosure for the hamster to chew.</p><h4>Vital Statistics</h4><ul><li>Average adult body weight: Males: 80-130 g, Female: 95-150 g</li><li>Age of sexual maturity: Male: 10-14 weeks, Female: 6-10 weeks</li><li>Average life span in captivity: 1.5-2 years</li></ul><h4>Is your Hamster a male or a female?<br /></h4><p>Male hamsters have rather large scrotal sacs that give them a rounded posterior. Gentle pressure on the abdomen of the male hamster will cause the testicles to descend into the sacs. The female hamster&rsquo;s posterior is pointed toward the tail.</p><h4>What do Hamsters do all day?</h4><p>Syrian golden hamsters should be housed individually in an enclosure. Hamsters are excellent climbers and burrowers and should be provided with safe outlets for these activities. They enjoy running in exercise wheels; however, only wheels with a solid running surface should be used to prevent limb trauma. A wire wheel can be modified to provide a solid surface for running. A wheel for an adult golden hamster should be at least 8&rdquo; (20 cm) in diameter. If clear plastic exercise balls are used for the hamster to explore the home safely, the covers must be secured with tape to prevent the animal&rsquo;s escape from the ball.</p><h4>What should you feed your Hamster?</h4><p>Hamsters should be fed commercial pellets specifically designed for small rodents. Young hamsters begin eating solid food at 7-10 days of age, so food and water must be accessible for their smaller size. Treats may include such items as tiny bits of apple (no seeds or skin), raisins and walnuts. Drinking water is provided via sipper tubes. The water should be changed daily to ensure that the tube is functional and not clogged with food. Water can also be obtained from carrots and other fruits and vegetables.</p><h4>How to keep your Hamster healthy, happy and safe</h4><ul><li>Set up a schedule of consistent time and attention each day to maintain tameness.</li><li>Clean the enclosure environment at least weekly to reduce odors and check for food in hiding spots that was hoarded and left to spoil.</li><li>Use a wheel with solid flooring or modify a wire wheel by weaving a paper material through the rungs to prevent leg damage.</li><li>Ensure that droppings are normal firm pellets. Sticky or soft droppings may indicate diarrhea, while scant, smaller droppings may indicate constipation.</li><li>Because free-ranging hamsters spend almost all daylight hours underground, exposure to direct sunlight in captivity is not desirable.</li></ul><h4>Housing for your hamster should:<br /></h4><ul><li>be made of strong metal to be escape-proof, as hamsters can gnaw through wood, plastic and soft metals.</li><li>include a secure lid and solid-bottom flooring.</li><li>offer at least 150 square inches (967 cm2) of floor space with a cage height of at least 6-10 inches (15-25 cm).</li><li>include a nesting or hide box with deep litter for burrowing.</li><li>be placed in optimum temperatures of 65-79 F, with young maintained between 71-75 F.</li><li>provide relative humidity environment of 40-70%.</li><li>contain a nesting material, such as undyed, unscented toilet tissue. The hamster will instinctively manipulate this to simulate the burrow, and it helps the hamster control temperature.</li></ul><h4>It is important to prevent hamsters from accessing:<br /></h4><ul><li>electrical cords</li><li>dogs, cats, ferrets and young children</li><li>pesticides and other toxins</li><li>tobacco and cigarette smoke</li><li>cedar or pine shavings</li><li>toxic houseplants</li><li>wire exercise wheels</li><li>wire flooring in its enclosure</li><li>fatty seed diets, too much fresh produce, not enough fiber, too many treats</li><li>plastic toys that can be broken apart and consumed</li><li>commercial wooden chew blocks, chew sticks and common household sources of wood that may be contaminated with fireproofing material</li><li>nesting materials (commonly called fluff) that may lead to intestinal blockages or strangulated limbs.</li></ul><h4>What your veterinarian looks for in a healthy Hamster:<br /></h4><ul><li>Bright, shiny eyes</li><li>Nose and eyes clear of any discharge</li><li>Nails and teeth not overgrown</li><li>Males have normal scent glands (dark patches on their flanks)</li><li>Hair coat in good condition (no hair loss or greasy or unkempt appearance)</li></ul><h4>Most common disorders of Hamsters:</h4><ul><li>Obesity/weight loss</li><li>Diarrhea (transitory)</li><li>Wet tail/gastrointestinal disturbances</li><li>Skin wounds/trauma</li><li>Skin infections</li><li>Excess urination</li><li>Sudden death</li><li>Malocclusion/ cheek pouch impaction</li><li>Malnutrition/starvation/dehydration</li><li>Hairballs/foreign bodies</li><li>Chilling/overheating</li><li>Litter abandonment</li><li>Antibiotic toxicity</li><li>Heart disease</li></ul><p>Having your hamster examined on a regular basis by an exotic animal veterinarian who is familiar with small exotic mammals can prevent many of the common disorders above. For help in finding a small mammal veterinarian in your area, contact the <a href="http://www.AEMV.org" target="_blank" title="Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians">Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians</a>.</p><h4>Background information</h4><p>The most common hamster species maintained as a pet is the golden or Syrian hamster (Mesocricetus auratus). Others include the Chinese hamster (Cricetulus griseus) and Siberian (dwarf winter white or Djungarian) hamster (Phodopus sungorus). The European or black-bellied hamster (Cricetus cricetus) is not usually kept domestically. The golden hamster originates from a very limited range in the Middle East, where owl predators and destruction of territory are threatening the species&rsquo; existence. Today, captive breeding facilities supply the pet and research laboratory markets.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><br />Zoological Education Network Zoological Education Network Small Animal Breed Finder http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1828 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1828">Ferret</a><br /><h4>What to expect from your ferret</h4><p>Ferrets are extremely playful, active, curious and good-natured animals that enjoy the company of humans and other animals. For these reasons they make wonderful pets, but they also require a fair amount of attention. Ferrets love to run around free in the home and can be taught to use a litter box like a cat, although you may need to place a litter box in the corner of every room or area where the ferret spends a great deal of time. Ferrets are generally quiet. The only vocalizations they make are chuckles and giggles during play, squeals or screams when threatened and sometimes cries when in pain.</p><h4>Vital statistics</h4><ul><li>Body length: 9-15 inches (22-38 cm)</li><li>Body weight: Male: 1-2 kg, Female: 0.5-1.0 kg</li><li>Sexual maturity: 4-8 months</li><li>Life span: 5-8 years</li></ul><h4>What do ferrets do all day?</h4><p>Ferrets are usually most active in the early morning and evening. They get into everything; they attack household plants, steal socks, and push things down from shelves. They will steal items they treasure and hoard them in several stashes around your home. They like to burrow into the backs of sofas, undersides of mattresses, pillow cases, drawers, ducts, boxes and cabinets. They can slip into very small spaces: wherever their heads will fit, their bodies can follow.</p><h4>Are ferrets tame?</h4><p>Ferrets learn quickly and can be trained to come to cues such as bells or whistles. They easily adapt to a harness and leash and love to go for walks and to travel. A standard dog or cat carrier equipped with a small litter box is adequate for transporting your ferret. Some ferrets may make a habit of biting or becoming covetous of toys; discipline and training when they are young or new to your household will eliminate nipping and biting when they are older.</p><p>What Should You Feed Your Ferret?</p><p>Ferrets need a diet high in meat proteins and fat. Ferrets cannot digest large amounts of fiber and do not need significant amounts of carbohydrates. Additional treats of fruit or vegetables should be restricted to 1 tsp (5 ml)/day, and sugary treats should be avoided. A commercially prepared diet specifically formulated for ferrets is recommended. If you have an adult ferret previously fed dry cat food, you can convert your pet to ferret food by mixing the ferret food in with the cat food, gradually increasing the proportion of ferret food to 100% over 2-3 weeks.</p><h4>Is your ferret a male or a female?</h4><p>You can determine your ferret&rsquo;s sex by examining its external genitalia. Male ferrets have a ventral abdominal penis and are generally larger than females. Most ferrets, whether male or female, are neutered at an early age before they reach the pet market. This results in a pet that is more placid, less moody and less at risk for reproductive diseases. Intact females must be spayed or bred to prevent fatal estrogen toxicity. Also at an early age their anal scent glands are removed. This results in a reduction of their natural odor, making them more desirable as pets.</p><h4>Care of your geriatric ferret</h4><p>Ferrets over the age of 3 years should have a geriatric examination every 6-12 months, because it is at this age that some disease problems may begin to appear. In particular, your exotic animal veterinarian may evaluate your ferret&rsquo;s coat and overall conditioning, listen to the heart and lungs, palpate the abdomen for masses and recommend blood work, x-rays and urinalysis to screen for internal disease. Ultrasonography or electrocardiology may also be recommended. </p><h4>How to keep your ferret healthy, happy and safe!</h4><ul><li>Groom your ferret on a regular basis: bathe, trim nails, brush teeth and clean its ears.</li><li>Provide toys for play in its cage when you are not at home: anything that it can bat about, roll, toss or chew, but not ingest.</li><li>Check the play area for potential hazards.</li><li>Take your ferret to an exotic animal veterinarian for an annual physical examination, fecal analysis for parasites, and dental cleaning.</li><li>Keep your ferret up-to-date on canine distemper and rabies vaccinations.</li><li>Provide heartworm preventive medication.</li><li>Avoid exposing your ferret to human influenza, to which it may be susceptible.</li></ul><p>Housing for your ferret should:</p><ul><li>be restricted to a safe enclosure when the animal is unattended</li><li>have solid flooring, or if wired, be filled with bedding of shavings (no cedar), newspaper or commercially available bedding made of recycled paper or cloth</li><li>contain &ldquo;cage furniture:&rdquo; hammocks, muffs, corrugated tubes, dryer vent tubing and large PVC pipes for tunneling</li><li>contain folded fabric such as a sheet or flannel clothing for burrowing while sleeping</li><li>have average room temperature and humidity (avoid greater than 80 F and humidity over 55%)</li><li>provide for a constant source of fresh water</li><li>include a litter box</li></ul><p>It is important to prevent ferrets from accessing:</p><ul><li>table scraps or treats with too much fiber or salt</li><li>foods with high levels of vegetable protein, such as soy flour and wheat gluten</li><li>sweets, dairy products, bones, chocolate</li><li>rubber or plastic toys that can be easily torn apart and ingested</li><li>unsupervised freedom in the home</li><li>cedar shavings</li><li>overheating</li><li>dogs, birds, unsupervised children</li><li>electrical cords</li><li>toweling or frayed fabrics with ingestible fibers</li></ul><h4>What your veterinarian looks for in a healthy ferret:</h4><ul><li>Dry or slightly moist nose</li><li>Bright, clear eyes and clean teeth</li><li>Trim nails</li><li>Supple, elongated abdomen with no abnormal lumps</li><li>Smooth, glistening coat</li><li>Curious and playful attitude</li><li>Clean anus</li></ul><h4>Most common disorders of ferrets:</h4><ul><li>&ldquo;Sick ferret&rdquo; syndrome (weak, not eating, dehydrated, tarry stool)</li><li>Adrenal disease</li><li>Gastrointestinal obstructions (foreign bodies)</li><li>Traumatic injuries, including electric shock</li><li>Cardiac disease</li><li>Insulinoma and other tumors</li><li>Gastroenteritis</li><li>Dental and gum disease</li><li>Urolithiasis/cystitis/renal disease</li><li>Internal parasites</li><li>Ear mites</li><li>Fleas/flea allergy dermatitis</li><li>Heartworms</li><li>Canine distemper viral disease</li></ul><p>Many of the above diseases can be treated or prevented; therefore, taking your ferret to an exotic animal veterinarian on a regular basis will help keep your pet healthy and safe and help you maintain a long and satisfying relationship with your ferret. For help in finding a small mammal veterinarian in your area, contact the <a href="http://www.AEMV.org" target="_blank" title="Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians">Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians.</a> </p><h4>Background information</h4><p>The domestic ferret (Mustela putorius furo) descends from the European polecat and was originally raised to hunt rodents and rabbits and for fur production. Male ferrets are called hobs, and females are called jills. Baby ferrets are called kits. Several color variations have developed through breeding the domestic ferret, including the sable or &ldquo;fitch,&rdquo; which has a dark mask across its nose and around its dark-colored eyes (see cover) and a pastel or cream-colored ferret, with a light-colored mask around dark eyes (see inside). Legal ownership of ferrets varies. Some states, municipalities and cities require that owners register their pet ferrets. Several states have special rabies quarantine laws governing ferrets in case of a human bite. Before purchasing a ferret, inquire about local laws regarding ownership and obtain proper permits or licenses. Changes in legalities are updated on the internet.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><br />Zoological Education Network Zoological Education Network Small Animal Breed Finder http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1825 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1825">Rat</a><br /><h4>What to expect from your rat</h4><p>Rats make excellent pets, being clean, quiet and easy to care for. Strong bonds can quickly be formed with these intelligent, inquisitive and affectionate animals. Because rats are so social (free-ranging rats live communally), it is best for at least two same-sex or altered rats to live together. Single rats must receive more attention than most pet owners are willing to give. Rats are usually very gentle and reluctant to bite unless they are frightened. Most rats will allow you to pick them up by placing your hand firmly over the back and rib cage, or by scooping them up with both hands.</p><h4>Vital statistics</h4><ul><li>Average adult body weight: Females: 250-400 grams, Males: 450-520 grams</li><li>Age of sexual maturity: 5-7 weeks</li><li>Average life span: 2-3 years</li></ul><h4>Is your rat a male or a female?</h4><p>Male rats have a large scrotum, making them easy to differentiate from female rats. Also, the distance from the anus to the genitals is roughly twice as long in male rats as in female rats. Only female rats have nipples.</p><p>Families interested in breeding their rats must first decide how to find homes for all the babies. Then, some preparatory reading is recommended. The average litter is 12 and the gestation period is 21-23 days. The babies should not be weaned until they are 4-5 weeks old.</p><h4>What do rats do all night?</h4><p>Rats are mostly nocturnal, so evening is the best time to observe and interact with them. Daily attention, handling, and regularly scheduled play times at least 30 minutes in length will lead to a calmer, gentler pet. Rats like to explore their surroundings and favor tubes, climbing toys, exercise wheels and areas to investigate. Safe items on which to gnaw, such as commercial chew sticks, pesticide-free hardwood branches and ink-free cardboard, are also necessary. Rats thrive best in full darkness at night; nightlights or uncovered windows in their environment should be avoided.</p><h4>What should you feed your rat?</h4><p>Rats are omnivorous, eating both plant and animal foods. Commercially available pelleted diets made specifically for rats (e.g., by Teklad, Mazuri, Wayne) are adequate to meet nutritional needs. Rat blocks (pellets) should be offered free-choice. The best treats are fresh fruits and vegetables. Poor nutrition can lead to weight loss, obesity or overall ill health.</p><p>Fresh water should be available at all times, ideally provided via a drinking bottle. The bottle and sipper tube should be cleaned each time the bottle is refilled, making sure the sipper tube properly functions. </p><h4>How to keep your rat healthy, happy and safe</h4><ul><li>Handle gently.</li><li>Provide daily playtime.</li><li>Maintain a clean environment to minimize stress and the risk of respiratory disease.</li><li>Avoid overcrowding.</li><li>Feed a fresh, high quality pelleted diet formulated specifically for rats/rodents.</li><li>Provide fresh water at all times.</li><li>Frequent lump checks and weight, teeth and respiratory health examinations are recommended in order to quickly observe and treat any impending health problem. </li><li>Check fecal pellets: they should be firm, oval, yet contain moisture. Constipation or dehydration may be indicated if stools are hard, dry and smaller than usual; illness may be present if feces are overly soft.</li><li>Monitor water bottle levels.</li></ul><h4>Housing for a single pet rat should:</h4><ul><li>be at least 14&rdquo; x 24&rdquo; x 12&rdquo; &mdash; the bigger, the better</li><li>be made of safe, cleanable, escape-proof material</li><li>have solid flooring of plastic or metal, large enough to allow nesting, burrowing and exercise areas</li><li>contain bedding material, which should be changed about once a week</li><li>include suitable substrates, such as shredded paper (non-inked), recycled newspaper composite materials or pellets, hardwood chips or shavings and compressed wheat straw. Cedar chips should be avoided as they may be toxic</li><li>be maintained at room temperature (65-80 F) with 40-70% humidity</li><li>include a hammock, hide box or sleeping box</li><li>be located off the floor and away from windows and heating/cooling vents </li></ul><p>It is important to prevent rats from accessing:</p><ul><li>dogs, cats and ferrets without proper introduction and supervision</li><li>small children without supervision</li><li>electrical cords or wires</li><li>locations where rats can fall</li><li>pesticides and other toxins</li><li>tobacco and cigarette smoke</li><li>cedar and pine shavings</li><li>ammonia from a dirty cage</li><li>elevated floors or ramps made of 1.27 x 2.54 cm wire mesh</li><li>items you do not want your rat to chew</li><li>toxic houseplants</li><li>other small pet mammals and birds (that a rat can kill)</li><li>temperatures more than 90 F</li><li>wire exercise wheels</li></ul><h4>What your veterinarian looks for in a healthy rat</h4><ul><li>Bright, shiny eyes free of discharge or red secretions</li><li>No sneezing, wheezing or labored breathing</li><li>Nostrils free of discharge</li><li>Teeth and claws even, not overgrown</li><li>Firm body weight, neither thin nor obese</li><li>Alert, inquisitive nature</li><li>No abnormal lumps or scabs</li></ul><h4>Most common disorders of rats</h4><ul><li>Respiratory disease (mycoplasmosis, secondary infections, viruses)</li><li>Congestive heart failure</li><li>Mammary tumors</li><li>Cancer</li><li>Ectoparasitism</li><li>Pituitary tumors</li><li>Abscesses</li><li>Obesity</li><li>Pododermatitis (foot infection)</li><li>Malocclusion</li><li>Sudden death/trauma</li><li>Nephrosis</li><li>Overheating/chilling/heat stress</li><li>Paraplegia in geriatric rats </li></ul><p>The most common health problem in rats is respiratory disease. Visiting your veterinarian for routine health checks will help prevent many diseases and support you in having a fun, satisfying relationship with your pet rat. For help in finding a small mammal veterinarian in your area, contact the <a href="http://www.aemv.org/" target="_blank" title="Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians">Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians</a>.</p><h4>Background Information</h4><p>The most common rat species kept as a pet is Rattus norvegicus. Free-ranging Norway rats live in and about human habitations and on ships and have become naturalized by commerce in most parts of the world. The rats bred in captivity for several purposes &mdash; for feeding captive reptiles, for research in laboratories and sold as pets &mdash; are all fully domesticated descendants of the free-ranging Norway rat. Pet rats come in many different colors, including albino (white with pink eyes), beige, black, brown, blue and gold, and in many different patterns, including Siamese, spotted and hooded. Albino rats have poor eyesight, and all rats rely on whiskers and scent for sensory input, sometimes weaving their head back and forth to focus on objects.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><br />Zoological Education Network Zoological Education Network Small Animal Breed Finder http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1823 <a href="http://www.webvet.com/main/article?id=1823">Rabbit</a><br /><h4>What to expect from your rabbit</h4><p>Rabbits are gentle, quiet animals that make excellent pets. They have dynamic personalities and appreciate human interaction. Domestic rabbits are best suited to live in safe homes with adult supervision. Rabbits like to explore and chew, so it is important to guard your home (furniture, electrical cords, wood) against their inquisitive nibbling when they are allowed to roam around your house. It is important to provide a stimulating environment for rabbits, such as the availability of toys. Toys may be as simple as cardboard mailers, paper towel centers, safe wooden toys made for birds or PVC tubing. A rabbit should be handled carefully, especially when removing it from its cage. Always support its hindquarters when picking it up, as its powerful rear legs can cause serious spinal injuries if it kicks while being held.</p><h4>Vital statistics</h4><ul><li>Body length: 6-12 inches (15-30 cm)</li><li>Body weight: 2-20 pounds (1-9 kg) (depends on breed)</li><li>Sexual maturity: Male: 4-7 months (dwarf breeds mature at a younger age)</li><li>Female: 4-9 months</li><li>Average life span: 5 years (max 15)</li></ul><h4>Are rabbits tame?</h4><p>The more time you spend with your rabbit, the more it will become tame, friendly and bonded to you. While it is usually gentle with its owner, a rabbit may kick, scratch or bite if it becomes anxious; therefore, play with young children must be supervised. Rabbits can be trained to use a litterbox.</p><h4>Is your rabbit a male or female?</h4><p>It is advised to take your rabbit to an exotic animal veterinarian to determine its gender because it is often difficult to properly sex a rabbit, especially a young one. It is a good idea to neuter or spay your rabbit before puberty (4-6 months of age) to guard against health problems involving the reproductive organs, especially in females.</p><h4>What should you feed your rabbit?</h4><p>Rabbits should be fed fresh commercial rabbit pellets (without additives) and hay. Rabbits younger than 6 months can have unlimited access to pellets and alfalfa hay. Adult rabbits should receive no more than 2-3 Tbls pellets per 5 pounds (2 kg) body weight per day. Alfalfa hay is too rich for adults, but they may have unlimited access to timothy or grass hay. Breeding or lactating adults may eat alfalfa hay. Limited quantities (4 Tbls/5 lbs [2 kg] body weight) dark green leafy vegetables can be given as supplements. Vegetables such as iceberg lettuce and celery are not good snacks, as they are not particularly nutritious. Adding supplements, such as HEALx Sunshine Factor&reg; may be beneficial. Fresh drinking water should be provided at all times in a sipper bottle.</p><h4>Where should you house your rabbit?</h4><p>You should confine your rabbit to a hutch, cage or bunny-proofed room when you are not at home. The larger the area, the better, as rabbits like to scamper about in bursts of energy. Yard and garden exercise should be strictly supervised. To house your rabbit outdoors, be sure it is sheltered from excessive sun and predators. Do not allow the ambient temperature around your rabbit&rsquo;s hutch to exceed 90 F. If the hutch has a slatted or mesh bottom, provide at least a section of solid flooring. </p><p>The House Rabbit Society recommends organic litters made from alfalfa, oat, citrus or paper. Litters made from soft woods, such as pine or cedar, should be avoided. Rabbits appreciate a box for hiding and sleeping. You will want to clean your rabbit&rsquo;s cage frequently (at least once a week), both for your rabbit&rsquo;s health as well as to control urine odor.</p><p>If you have more than one rabbit, keep your males separated from each other and from females. Be aware that non-neutered males will fight with each other whether there are females around or not.</p><h4>How to keep your rabbit healthy, happy and safe</h4><ul><li>Take your rabbit to your veterinarian immediately after purchase and annually for examinations.</li><li>Ask your veterinarian to evaluate your rabbit&rsquo;s teeth so they won&rsquo;t become overgrown.</li><li>Administer medication to your rabbit only as directed by your veterinarian.</li><li>Keep your rabbit&rsquo;s toenails trimmed and its fur free of mats and feces.</li><li>Have your female rabbit spayed at an early age to prevent uterine cancer.</li><li>Prevent the formation of hairballs by brushing your rabbit frequently and by providing sufficient roughage in the diet via a good timothy hay.</li><li>Check sipper bottle frequently as rabbits drink a lot of water.</li></ul><h4>Housing for your rabbit should:</h4><ul><li>include a cage or box for hiding even if the rabbit is given free range in the home</li><li>be cleaned every few days, including a change of bedding material to keep it dry</li><li>be maintained in an ambient temperature between 55-90 F </li><li>be located in an area with good ventilation</li><li>include a tunnel for hiding and resting</li><li>include items for chewing, such as untreated wood, cardboard, or safe wooden toys</li><li>include suitable substrates, such as shredded paper (non-inked), recycled newspaper composite materials, straw or hay. Cedar chips should be avoided as they may be toxic. </li></ul><p>It is important to prevent rabbits from accessing:</p><ul><li>electrical cords</li><li>blankets and carpets that may be ingested</li><li>leaded paint and wood varnish</li><li>unsupervised dogs, cats and other pets</li><li>unsupervised play with young children</li><li>toxic houseplants</li><li>pesticides or other lawn chemicals</li><li>cedar shavings</li><li>tobacco and cigarette smoke</li><li>&ldquo;gourmet&rdquo; pellets that include peanuts and other additives</li></ul><h4>What your veterinarian looks for in a healthy rabbit</h4><ul><li>Clean ears</li><li>A wiggling, dry nose</li><li>Proper alignment of teeth</li><li>Dense, clean, unmatted fur</li><li>Clean feet free of sores</li><li>An alert and inquisitive disposition</li></ul><h4>Visit your veterinarian if you notice any of the following signs in your rabbit:</h4><ul><li>Poor appetite</li><li>Abnormal droppings (decreased production, diarrhea)</li><li>Indications of pain (hunched posture, loud tooth grinding)</li><li>Abnormal intestinal sounds</li><li>Difficulty eating, slobbering</li><li>Overgrown teeth</li><li>Bald areas on fur</li><li>Dandruff or flaky skin</li><li>Lumps and bumps under the skin</li><li>Matted fur around the nose, eyes or inside front paws</li><li>Crusts or wax in the ears</li><li>Blood on the mouth, feet or genitalia</li><li>Noisy breathing, sneezing</li><li>Sores on the bottom of the feet</li><li>Listlessness</li><li>Head tilt</li><li>Swollen or tender abdomen</li></ul><p>The single most important factor that causes disease conditions in rabbits is improper feeding. Visiting your exotic animal veterinarian for routine health checks and discussion of the appropriate diet will help prevent many diseases and support you in having a long, satisfying relationship with your rabbit. For help in finding a small mammal veterinarian in your area, contact the <a href="http://www.aemv.org/" target="_blank" title="Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians">Association of Exotic Mammal Veterinarians</a>.</p><h4>Background Information</h4><p>Rabbits belong to a group of animals called the lagomorphs, which includes both the domesticated and wild rabbits. They are not rodents. Free-ranging rabbits are abundant in Western Europe, North America, South America, Australia and New Zealand, where they live in underground burrows. Rabbits are not trapped in the wild for the pet trade because free-ranging rabbits do not adapt well to captivity. Rabbits may be purchased from pet shops or adopted from shelters nationwide. The <a href="http://www.rabbit.org" target="_blank" title="House Rabbit Society">House Rabbit Society</a> can assist families in locating foster care facilities with adoptable single rabbits or bonded pairs. There are about 45 different breeds of rabbit. The most popular pet breeds are the New Zealand white, the angora, the Netherland dwarf, the Dutch (cover), the lop (Holland, mini) (inside), and the mini rex. Rabbits are naturally coprophagous: they ingest the softer, sticky cecal droppings they produce approximately 4 hours after eating. By this process, they get maximal vitamins and nutrition from their food.</p><br />Zoological Education Network Zoological Education Network Small Animal Breed Finder